Good call on a deep clean. I’m sure you’ll figure it out. I think it’s a lot of trial and error for most people at the beginning.

That piece on the FEP sheet is where it let go from the supports when the build plate lifted. More support will probably fix that.

I always think about what’s happening when I’m doing supports. The resin gets cured on the FEP then the build plate moves up and pulls that layer off the FEP. The part is being pulled by forces in opposite directions so we need to make sure that the part hanging on to the build plate is sufficiently anchored so it’ll pop off the FEP and not off the build plate.

Any time!

If it didn’t print at all I’d be looking at that USB right away. I had many half printed things and corrupted files before I clued in.

I started resin printing a couple months ago. I had some of those layer problems too. I found that I need way more supports than I thought I needed at the beginning. This is a pretty good guide on supoorts. Alternately Ive been using lychee slicer’s auto supports. They seem to work well for the most part.

I also just recently did some exposure tests. It takes a while because each test is about 20 minutes but it turns out I was under exposing my prints so things are better now.

Lastly I replaced the usb stick the printer came with. I highly recommend doing this right away, a bad stick can do weird things. I got two 64gb Kingston data travellers for $10 Canadian. It’s well worth it.

Haven’t had the layer issues since I did these things and, fingers crossed, I haven’t had a failed print since either.

Reducing the time won’t help with adhesion to the build plate but an overexposed layer might make the following layer less likely to adhere correctly. I always do 25sec on my bottom layers and never have adhesion problems so I figured it could work for you too.

I’m not 100% sure because I’m fairly new as well but I’d try going with 25 seconds for the bottom layers and adding a bit of wait time before lifting.

It looks like your bottom layers did fine but maybe the normal layers didn’t adhere properly to the bottom layers. That could explain why you had some sticking to the FEP.

I’d also make sure the FEP sheet is is good shape. No big scratches or dents.

Did the print complete but not turn out or did the printer stop early with an error?

Check out Formlabs resin printers. They have special resins that may do what you need. They also have sales people on staff to walk you through everything.

They’re pretty pricey for a hobbyist (at least for this hobbyist) but a business may be ok with it.

10-4. I hear you.

For labs sells a biocompatible resin for medical use. I’ll probably end up switching to that.

I just looked in to a vibratory tumbler, they aren’t cheap!

Thanks!

Everything I found said that cured resin is inert. I did see that there are biocompatible resins out there but they seem to be mostly used in dental applications. I’ll keep searching though.

Elegoo clear blue ABS like resin.

I’ve thought about attaching a jar to my drill and turning the part in some kind of medium.

What kind of parameters need adjusting for your process?

Appreciate that detailed explanation. I probably should have put something in the picture for scale. This is about 2.5cm in diameter. Not sure I could get a buffing tool small enough to be useful.

They are indeed support marks. I’ve already messed with orientation and this is the position with the least marks so far. I haven’t really messed with support settings yet. Thanks for the idea.

I had no idea call of duty was such a big deal. It’s not my jam so I never notice it.

10-4, thanks for the detailed response!

The first layer needs to stick to the build plate well. If it doesn’t stick the print will fail and best case you’ll need to start again.

First layers are notoriously fiddly to get right because there are so many variables that affect it.

Really depends on the models in my opinion. Small highly detailed models would do better in resin.

I started in FDM and then went to resin. For me resin is way easier. Far less fiddling with hardware.

They’re a board game POD service https://www.thegamecrafter.com/

They said they’d do the injection moulding in PVC? If so you’d be fine making prototypes/demos in resin.

Also, have you in to the game crafter to see if they can do what you need?